Grooming Style

The 20 Best Mens Watches Under $200

There are a plethora of important causes to get behind today, but one crucial thing you can do right now to make a difference is: Wear a god dang watch. Because you can’t manage your own life, let alone save the world, if you don’t know what time it is. As adamant endorsers of the endangered accessory, we picked out a stylish selection for you to double tap, from oversized and sporty to dapper and bold gold. The added bonus? These 21st-century time tellers are modestly priced, so you don’t have to deplete your lunch money to look cool. And hey, if nothing else, a watch will give you a place to rest your eyes other than looking at your phone screen. Browse our options ahead to find a favorite now, and get down with your punctual self.


We see your ugly sneakers, and raise you their statement-making accessory cousin. Piggy-backing off of the nineties trend, these oversized watches feel heavy enough to work with boxy, streetwear shapes — and their military-inspired color palette lends a versatile edge that breaks up a business casual vibe (in a good way). Shoutout to G-Shock for spearheading the look.

1. Casio G-Shock ‘Utility Colour’ Watch
Courtesy of Casio

From the frontrunner of the chunky-sport style comes this cadet-cool option in modern sand with a black display.

Buy Now, $99
2. Nixon Regulus Watch
Courtesy of Nixon

This covert watch proves sand is the new black with a rectangular face, a patented looper strap, and plenty of bells and whistles to boot.

Buy Now, $165
3. Rip Curl Rifles Tide Watch
Courtesy of Rip Curl

Get deep in this diver’s dream that is waterproof tested up to 330ft.

Buy Now, $150
4. Casio Tough Solar Illuminator Analog/Digital Sport Watch
Courtesy of Casio

Fashion meets innovation via Casio’s sleek take, which is solar powered, so you never need to worry about replacing the battery.

Buy Now, $55
5. Ironman Shock 30 Resin Strap Watch in Gray/Black/Green
Courtesy of Timex

You’ll be shook over this shock style featuring neon-green accents and a light-up dial that come in handy on land or at sea.

Buy Now, $67


Casual undergoes a classy update in these juxtaposed time tellers, which feature classic canvas straps teamed with current black watch faces. A little bit rugged, a little bit elegant, they are like the Matthew McConaughey of watches. That is, you can rock them with jeans or a suit. Alright, alright, alright!

6. Timex Whitney Village Stainless Steel and Striped Grosgrain Watch
Courtesy of Timex

Paying tribute to the Timex archives, which date back to 1854, this preppy model boasts a reversible strap so you get even more bang for your buck.

Buy Now, $125
7. Kapten & Son Campus Grey Vintage Leather
Courtesy of Kapten & Son

Kapten and Son’s beautiful campus face pairs nicely with a vintage grey leather strap. This is a great timepiece to dress up or dress down, and can be the right fit for a wide array of occasions. 

Buy Now, $169.90
8. Daniel Wellington Roselyn Watch
Courtesy of Daniel Wellington

From her ruby red strap to a rose gold hardware, she’s the kind of watch you want to take home to mom.

Buy Now, $199
9. Breda Valor Canvas Strap Watch
Courtesy of Urban Outfitters

Pull off a smooth operation in Breda’s no-fuss black-and-green add-on.

Buy Now, $80
10. Simple Watch Co. Kent Watch
Courtesy of Dixon

Oh, you fancy huh? This black beauty is built with sapphire crystal, crack-resistant glass, a concave shape, and Japanese Miyota quartz movement yielding perfection in a timepiece.

Buy Now, $179
11. The Timex Weekender
Courtesy of Timex

The Weekender is one of the most legendary low-cost watches of all time. It’s timeless. Whether you want to dress it up or dress it down, the weekender and its vast array of possible customizations is an extremely versatile piece of relatively cheap wrist wear for those entering the game. 

Buy Now, Simple Watch Co. Kent Watch
12. Timex Standard Chronograph
Courtesy of Timex

For those looking for something a bit more refined than the weekender, but a piece that still won’t break the bank, look no further than the standard chronograph. As with a lot of Timex pieces, you can swap out whatever leather strap you want, and the face (which comes in multiple colors) has all the information you need.

Buy Now, $109
13. Seiko Essentials
Courtesy of Seiko

Seiko’s collection of solar powered watches features a lot of really beautiful pieces. The watches are powered by solar energy, so you’ll never need to change the battery. The series comes in lots of shapes and sizes, but we love this blue nylon strap with the deep navy face.  

Buy Now, $195


Not your father’s watch… Or is it? This timeless crop is popping off, calling to mind after-school sitcoms, power suits and TV dinners, while still benefiting from 2018 technology. Whether you prefer a classic or more kitschy model, you’ll ace the trend in one of these styles that all share a common link bracelet design. Stay gold (and on time), Ponyboy.

14. Nixon Time Teller Watch
Courtesy of Nixon

This gold-on-gold gem feels like something the Fresh Prince and Will Smith would wear, and that’s why we love it.

Buy Now, $115|Google|Cons|Us|Shopping|En|SmartShopping&utm_term=-_-&utm_content=GID_105898064142-_-AID_463081413309-_-{AdGroupName}-_-TID_pla-9
15. Michael Kors Slim Runway Watch
Courtesy of Michael Kors

Turn the dials back, and party like it’s 1999 in this classic gold number.

Buy Now, $195
16. Armani Exchange A|X Men’s Fitz Gold-Tone Stainless Steel Bracelet Watch
Courtesy of Armani Exchange

Black-and-gold never looked better. Take this for a spin on your next date night, and you’ll look extra.

Buy Now, $180
17. Bulova Classic
Courtesy of Bulova

Because dudes want to sparkle sometimes, too. Yas, king.

Buy Now, $178
18. Casio Vintage Digital Watch
Courtesy of Casio

Make Ryan Adams proud in this old-school watch, which will come in handy whether you’re playing pinball or running laps.

Buy Now, $65
19. Casio Calculator Watch
Courtesy of Casio

The Casio calculator watch is an iconic piece of nerd-inspired wrist wear. Although the calculator itself can be a little clunky to use (and you’ve got a calculator on your phone anyway), there’s something so appealing about the watch’s goofy visual style. The water resistant time piece is a great addition to anyone’s rotation.

Buy Now, $60
20. Fossil Forrester
Courtesy of Fossil

Fossil is well known for their leather goods, but they also really know their way around a timepiece. This stainless steel watch is a great choice for those looking for a medium sized watch with just the right amount of flash. The Fossil won’t exactly turn heads, but watch-lovers will absolutely recognize it for its minimalist but beautiful aesthetic.

Buy Now, $149
Mental Health Strength

These 6 New Year’s Eve Horror Stories Will Make You Want to Stay In to Bring in 2020

When it comes to New Year’s Eve, expectations don’t always become realities. What you think is going to be a wild-in-a-good-way night out with great drinks, great friends and general happy vibes often ends up in some sort of disaster. From nights out that were foiled by hot dogs to coat-check thieves, here are seven NYE horror stories from friends—real and digital—and coworkers that will make you want to lock your door on December 31 and hibernate until 2019 begins.

Roberta, 27

“One year I had a hot dog for dinner before going out on New Year’s Eve. While I was out, I had only had one drink, but started to feel super sick—like throw-uppy sick—and went home. I ended up puking all night from food poisoning from the HOT DOG. So miserable.”

Conor, 29

“In 2013, I went to a bar near Washington Square Park in NYC, paid more than $125 for an ‘open bar,’ which essentially equated to tipping the bartender $20 every time I went up for a drink because dozens of people were trying to be served all at once. On top of all that, the police were called around 1 a.m., because it turns out the women who were working the coat check were robbing everyone’s jackets and bags. I was stuck waiting around until 4 a.m. to get my coat back, before struggling to make my way back to my friend’s apartment. Needless to say, I’ve soured on NYE ever since then.”

Maggie, 28

“This was in college (I was young and stupid). My friends and I were going to a house party that ended up being super crowded. Because it was so hot and loud inside, I decided to hang outside for a little while. I was having a great time until my right ear started to get extra cold. I didn’t think anything of it until I woke up the next morning and discovered that it was fire-engine red and still feeling numb. It turns out I had gotten frostnip (basically a less-serious version of frostbite) and had to spend the rest of the winter basically living in earmuffs.”

Anonymous, 31

“I was at a large New Year’s Party that was being thrown by an arts group that I was a part of in a two-story Irish bar near Penn Station. Eventually, my friends and I made our way to the dance floor where I happened to run into another friend of mine that I had had a big-time crush on. We started dancing together a little bit and just when I felt like maybe there were some sparks going on between us, we both noticed that her ex was standing a few feet away and staring at us. We tried to ignore him and keep grooving, but he kept staring. We would move to a different part of the dance floor. His eyes would follow. Typically, I don’t see nothing wrong with a little bump ‘n’ grind, but we left plenty of room for the Holy Spirit, lest this man decide to ring in the New Year by thumping my butt into the ground. It felt like we were trapped in an episode of American Bandstand.

Anyway, the tension was finally cut when another friend of mine started puking all over the place. I know a lot of people puke on NYE, but I remember having to pick up her shoes and bring them to her cab, so I can only assume that she puked her shoes off. Anyway, this story has a happy ending because we ended up dating, but ALMOST YEAR LATER. We now live together, but that lurking ex delayed our happiness BY 10 MONTHS.”

Lauren, 35

“Does being at an open bar event, which cost an exorbitant amount of money, and not being able to even get close to the bar because it’s so crowded count? If yes, then every New Year’s from age 22 to 26.”

Culture Movies/TV

Using Footage of the Apollo 11 Mission, This Director Reconstructed the Moon Landing for IMAX

Marketing teams can be hyperbolic. Whether a poster or a YouTube pre-roll ad, they will often exaggerate their message, claiming that you’ve “never seen this before” just to draw you in. But not all things require melodramatic marketing pitches, especially something as sensational as Apollo 11’s moon landing.

At the time, the cosmic watershed was only observable through limited means—you either tuned in via a crackly television broadcast in 1969, or attended the launch in person at Cape Canaveral. Beyond director Theo Kamecke’s doc Moonwalk One and monochrome clips at your local science museum, there isn’t much cinematic material on the storied launch that the public can access. Director Todd Douglas Miller sought to change that. He decided he would show the entire journey on a 72-foot IMAX screen in his new documentary film, Apollo 11.

Sifting through 11,000 hours of Mission Control audio, 16-millimeter and 35-millimeter films, and 177 previously undiscovered rolls of 65-millimeter Panavision film footage of the vessel’s launch (stored outside of D.C. at the National Archives Facility), Miller and his team have torn a wormhole in the space-time continuum for viewers to travel back to launch day in July 1969, transforming history into a 93-minute spectacle.

Years in the making, Miller started the project during the filming of his last feature, Dinosaur 13. He worked with archivist Stephen Slater—a space-history superfan—to sync the audio to the picture, an incredible feat. The hard-earned results will fascinate even the most uninterested viewer. Unmarred by talking heads or voiceovers, the minimal graphics and film’s score, created by a Moog 1968 reissued synthesizer, comes together to create a sonic and aesthetic experience that feels authentic to the core. Here, Miller explains how he rebuilt an iconic moment in American history.

The History

A lot the footage that ended up in our film was a direct product of some of the great cinematography that they did on Moonwalk One in and around the launch, during recovery and in mission control. The director on that was Theo Kamecke. He hired two really great cinematographers. One of the guys was Urs Furrer. They called him “The Bear.” He used to handhold these giant large-format cameras. We certainly owe those guys a lot for the gift that they gave us, which was this footage. But that company, Francis Thompson Inc., had been shooting large-format films for the better half of a decade leading up to Apollo 11.

The Discovery
Courtesy of CNN Films

It was always my intention to use the highest-quality imagery that was out there, whether that was film footage, the TV transmissions, both broadcasts—anything from the command module. And then also all the available audio. We worked with NASA National Archives.

Several months into the project, we got an email from our supervisory archivist [Stpehen Slater] that there was this discovery of a collection of large-format reels, and there wasn’t just one or two, but there appeared to be over a hundred of them, and we didn’t really know what was on them.

When we first saw the first images, we were just as shocked as what audiences are now when they see it. It wasn’t just that: We were also given access to over 11,000 hours of Mission Control specific audio that had never been heard before. So you have to say that started a very long process of not only getting the materials for the film, but also archiving and curating these materials and working together with National Archives to preserve all of it.

The Restoration
Courtesy of CNN Films

We had a dedicated software guy and dedicated hardware guy. Every reel was unique. But what’s even more unique about the particular scanner [we used to scan the footage] is that unlike telephony as it was known in the past, nothing actually touches the negative of the film. The film itself rides on a cushion of air, so we could basically use any gauge of large-format film: 35mm, 16mm, 8mm. Didn’t matter. We weren’t concerned with any mechanics.

It was a lot more economical and quicker to work with a scanner like this. But that was only half the battle. We also had to deal with [digital] storage solutions—the data rates were quite large that were coming off the scanner. So the guys had to come up with elaborate workflow solutions to be able to handle it, so I could get an edit back to them and then they could really get in there and do the restoration work, the magic on the material.

Sneakers Style

Vans Are Now Just as Comfortable as Running Sneakers

You don’t need to be a sneakerhead to recognize that, in 2019, athletic brands are now fashion brands and vice versa. This crossover has fueled massive growth in the sneaker industry. Today, sneakers are so much more than what you wear while working out. Vans, a brand created by and for skateboarders, hasn’t had much trouble convincing consumers its sneakers are cool. While they’ve experimented with fresh designs and buzzy collaborations to fuel interest from fashion-conscious consumers over the last several years, they haven’t had to push against the same perception challenges as some other sneaker labels (see: Puma, Reebok and ASICS). This presumably frees Vans up to focus on other things—like comfort. Yes, skateboarders and the stylish people that want to look like them care about arch support too.

To that end, last week Vans introduced a new version of its iconic Era sneaker that looks exactly the same on the outside but is markedly more comfortable on the inside. The technology, which the brand has dubbed the ComfyCush (say it in a SoCal surfer voice for extra points), features a foam-and-rubber interior and a smooth tongue for added comfort and arch support. In a press release, Matthew Pino, Vans’ Global Product Merchandising Manager, points out that “from five feet away, no one is going to question that it is different from our beloved Classic silhouettes.” Of course, at $60-$65 per pair, ComfyCush Eras do cost a little bit more than the original foam-free version. Still, compared to most “cool” sneakers on the market today, they’re a steal. Style, comfort and affordability—that’s the 2019 sneaker trifecta right there.

ComfyCush Suede and Canvas Era
Courtesy of Vans

Buy Now
Leaders Style

How to Become DeAndre Jordan’s Personal Stylist

Line up all the famous men shaping fashion trends today and chances are the majority of them are going to stand well over six feet tall and have washboard abs. NBA pros haven’t always dominated the style conversation, but they certainly are today. Courtney Mays is one of the stylists responsible for that shift. With her clients Chris Paul, Kevin Love and DeAndre Jordan, Mays has helped turn the arena tunnel into a new kind of runway—a place where you can spot the hottest sneakers, flyest suits and best bags in the game.

Because we know you want to look just as fly as an NBA guy, we’ve asked Mays to answer some of your style questions. Today she’s tackling what it takes to make it as a stylist. Give us a shout on Twitter with your Qs!

So, you want to be a stylist, huh? [Puff Daddy voice]

In the age of Instagram, it seems like everyone is a stylist. The cynical part of me gives a bit of side eye to all the glamorous street style stylists dressed head-to-toe in designer clothes, posing in front of graffiti walls, heading to “fittings.” If only it was that easy. Let’s have a real conversation: Being a creative and working for yourself is fulfilling and empowering but also that means you are the CEO, the assistant, the barista and the FedEx driver. Multitasking is an understatement and the fun celebrity-filled events only come after all the hard work and schlepping is done. Remember you are not the celebrity: You work for and with the celebrity. Given that, I’ve mapped out three key thoughts on how to get into the business.

1. Work for Free and Listen

Stylists are always looking for reliable, self-starters who are eager to learn and want to help. We’re usually working on 17 projects at once and need someone to just run returns, sort the studio, pick up supplies or research new designers. I know working for free is not ideal, but all of the greats before you did it, so you can’t be too good to do it as well. Plus, it gives you the gritty experience you need to understand the underbelly of the business.

Before moving to LA, I lived in New York and interned with a few stylists for over a year. The first day I quite literally sat in the car to make sure the stylist didn’t get tickets while she ran in to pick up PR pulls and shop at stores around SoHo. Sounds awful right? Well, the next day I was pulling jewelry for Ciara for a late-night TV appearance—and she actually wore it! And the day after that, I was packing Jamie Foxx for his upcoming press junket. Plus, that time spent in the car was actually an opportunity for me to get to know the stylist and ask her as many questions as I could about working in the industry. 

2. Be Someone People Want to Work With

Although styling requires skill and talent, like most jobs, it’s also about how well you get along with others and your ability to build good relationships, not only with your client, but the assistants, vendors, stores and all the people you come into contact with that help you accomplish the task at hand. This goes without saying, but I offer a smile and hello to every valet, every store employee, everyone—not just the big men on campus.

In an industry where who you know seems to get you the furthest, I stay true to the Midwest girl somewhere inside me that remains less interested in what someone can do for me and more interested in how I can just be a good person. Sending thank you notes go a long way, packaging returns correctly and neatly makes a difference, paying attention to details is crucial.

3. Know Your Craft and Study Your Industry

Unless you happen to be friends with Michael B. Jordan or Steph Curry, you probably won’t have access to them. Cold-calling agencies or DM-ing celebrities on Instagram works once in a blue moon, but most people have to work their way up the old school way, one step at a time. Find stylists and industry professionals who work you admire and try to connect directly with them instead. Ask them for advice, offer to intern for them, or pitch them ideas that could help their business as a way to show them how passionate you are.

If you want to be a stylist you should be reading about fashion, watching the runway shows, looking at endless photos, and figuring out what your point of view on all of it is. In addition to that, you should study the industry and who the players are. There’s a difference between the stylists who are responsible for the red carpet moments of the Oscars or ESPYS, the ones who work on Nike ad campaigns, the personal shoppers who manage closets and day-to-day style needs, the editors and style teams at GQ and Esquire, and the ones who are developing wardrobe for TV and film. Decide which niche suits you best and start there. If you’re successful, you’ll be able to do more than one of these things, but it’s always helpful to have focus when you’re just starting out.

And now, Courtney’s Dos, Don’ts and Must-Haves of the Month

DON’T do this at home!

Let’s boycott all of the problematic brands for a while. Shop local, shop small businesses, shop minority and female-owned!

DO do this at home!

In the wake of all of the controversy surrounding Gucci, Prada, Dolce, Moncler and countless other mainstream luxury brands who, whether as a media stunt or not, have chosen to design and market racially insensitive outright racist apparel, start supporting minority designers and small businesses. Aside from taking a stand for social justice and not looking like a designer clone, you’ll probably find more interesting and affordable pieces anyway.

African Wax Camper Hat, $40

The style steal…

These Harun tribal dad hats!

Buy Now
Zach Beeker/NBAE via Getty Images

Fit of the month…

Russell Westbrook in Michigan basketball shorts. Go Blue!

Saved on Instagram…

Totally inspired by hats on the Oscar red carpet and with a tuxedo! Dope!

Style What To Buy

5 Things to Make You Look Cooler That You Can Also Afford

There comes a point when a guy might decide he wants to, ya know, dress a bit cooler. But where does one start? It is easy to fall victim to the convenience offered by the fast fashion world. Retailers like Topman or Urban Outfitters might seem trendy and cheap, but don’t expect quality. The other trap is streetwear—buying Stüssy or Supreme because there is a line outside does not make a well-dressed dude.

Nobody can dictate your style but you: Only you can figure out what you like. But a good way to at least differentiate your style from every other guy’s fit is to buy stuff that isn’t at every other shop. Thrifting is a great way to begin and a rather inexpensive starting point to experimenting with your style. But if you were to purchase a few key items for relatively cheap that can really take your fits from lame to flame, we have a few suggestions.

Corduroy Dad Dodo Hat
Rowing Blazers

A corduroy hat can take your entire fit from stuffy or too put together to casual. Timothée Chalamet has been spotted on several occasions sporting a cap from menswear brand Rowing Blazers, started by former national rowing team member Jack Carlson. They’re comfy and come with tongue-in-cheek satin-stitched patches tacked to the front.

Buy Now
Rubber Soul Sneakers

There are a lot of different sneakers that sneakerheads lust over—new collabs between high-fashion designers and streetwear brands drop almost daily now. But there are a few shoe brands that are making interesting footwear that straddles the two world of sneakers and dress shoes well (Romain Kremer’s designs at Camper come to mind).

Enter RBRSL_RUBBER SOUL. Handcrafted in Piticchio, Italy, each pair is expertly designed and rubber-dipped until it appears as though the sole is fused with the upper. Then the makers progressively and strictly number each shoe for authenticity. They look experimental but wearable.

Buy Now
Old Pink Oversized Pants
Daily Paper

I get that dusty rose pants are not in every guy’s sartorial vocabulary, but they look super sick! When paired with other minimal staples—a white tee, a pair of sneakers—they can really elevate your outfit. Daily Paper makes a damn covetable pair. Founded in 2010 in Amsterdam, it began as a mostly hypebeast brand that has since expanded into much more wearable offerings.

Buy Now
A.P.C. Jayson Wallet
End Clothing

If your wallet is busted, here is a good one. The bifold is a thing of the past, and this A.P.C. wallet slips easily into your back pocket without looking like a butt tumor.

Buy Now
HTT Red Hoodie

Everyone needs an oversize hoodie, regardless of the season. This wine-colored hoodie from Korean brand APIECEOFCAKE is a one-way ticket to cool town. With its mantra “design for the present,” the label marries staple garments with interesting logos and graphics.

Buy Now
Leaders Style

The Downtown Jewelry Store That Gives A$AP Rocky and Jaden Smith Their Sparkle

For 58-year-old Chinese immigrant Eva Sam—or A$AP Eva, as she’s known to friends and regulars at her Canal Street jewelry store Popular Jewelry—all her biggest life events are intrinsically tied to rapper’s birthdays. “I opened this store on October 3, 1988, the same day as A$AP Rocky’s birthday,” Sam tells me, beaming. “He was born the same day, the same year.” Rocky shot a portion of his “Fukk Sleep” video at the store, which is sandwiched by souvenir shops and hidden under a yellow awning at 255 Canal Street—serendipitously around the corner from Howard Street, aka “Clout Alley.”

Again, when her store caught fire in early 2014 and nearly burnt down, it reopened on Nov. 6th, the same day as Chinese rapper and former EXO-member Kris Wu’s birthday. “He comes to visit me too,” she adds, gesturing at the collection of photos that wallpaper her fine jewelry outpost.

Sarah Jacobs/ONE37pm
Sarah Jacobs/ONE37pm

On the walls, visitors can survey Sam posing with bold-faced names like “Magnolia” rapper Playboi Carti, actor Jaden Smith and the A$AP Mob, the members of which bequeathed her her honorary title. It’s a hall of fame of rap’s biggest names and the bling they’ve purchased there. For Carti, a pair of custom earrings; for Travis Scott, a Jesus piece. She also created custom jewelry for Beyoncé’s Formation world tour. What’s uncanny is her ability to recognize these stars—she tells me that if someone looks famous, she’ll ask who referred them to her. “They tell me, ‘Oh, Travis Scott told me about you.’ ‘Pharrell sent me to your store.’”

Sarah Jacobs/ONE37pm

By sheer force of hard work, Sam has made her store a crucial pit stop on any downtown shopping tour. Her own induction into hip-hop royalty began when Wu-Tang Clan’s Cappadonna came to visit her store in 1996. Satisfied with his experience, he began preaching the gospel of Popular Jewelry to friends. Then came the deluge: “Tracy Morgan has come in a lot. Cee Lo Green, Beyoncé––actually, I have known her for 20 years,” she says, matter-of-factly. “Whenever you see jewelry on a TV station, it is probably mine. My jewelry has been on Saturday Night Live a lot.”

The most outrageous piece she’s had to create was for an SNL skit in which Tracy Morgan played Gaddafi. In it, he wore an onyx pendant in the shape of Africa with a diamond border. “They told me I only had two days to finish it, and I had to tell my husband I can’t sleep, or eat,” she says. “I worked so hard.”

Sarah Jacobs/ONE37pm
Sarah Jacobs/ONE37pm

Through all of Canal Street’s rapid gentrification, Popular Jewerly—a totem to good, honest customer service—has remained at its fixed address. It was originally a small booth in the front of its current location but has continually expanded over the years. Sam opened it in 1988 after following her family to the States. “Whatever [customers] ask of me, I know how to make it because I have been training since 1982. I worked for my brother, and he owns three jewelry stores. After I trained for six years there, I opened up my own business, and it was easy for me.”

The rapper cred helps, sure, but she credits the majority of her shop’s success to two things: Her operating hours (8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.) and her store’s proximity to three busy courthouses. “Because I am close to the civil court, when someone wins a case and a few million dollars, they come to buy tons of jewelry,” she says. “My husband told me, my mother told me, and my brother told, my family told me––everybody told me, ‘This is not a good location, don’t open it.’ But I said it was a decent, good location because Canal street has about 100,000 people walking in and out of the court.”

Sarah Jacobs/ONE37pm
Sarah Jacobs/ONE37pm

Sam has sold pieces for as much as $100,000, and they have the nous and equipment to craft customized pieces upwards of $1 million. But more than money, Sam is in this business to make strong connections with her customers. “I feel like everybody likes my store. Everybody comes in with their phones to post on snapchat. They’ll tell everybody, ‘I’ve come to visit my second mom in New York.’ Everybody treats me like a mommy.”

Earlier this month, A$AP Rocky returned to his favorite haunt on Valentine’s Day. He didn’t purchase anything but came simply to give Sam a hug. It’s moments like these that make it all worth it for Sam, who tells me with a smirk, “That is something like a modern mob!”

Sarah Jacobs/ONE37pm
Sneakers Style

Deadstock Report Is the Tongue-in-Cheek Instagram That Skewers Sneakerheads

“Quiz: What Dad Shoe Are You?” reads one headline posted on the Onion-esque Instagram @DeadstockReport, a new cultural voice that puts sneakerheads and hypebeasts in its crosshairs. Users answer questions to find out which popular sneaker—the Nike Air Monarch or Yeezy 700, for example—embodies their alter dad ego.

Since its launch in June 2018, Deadstock Report has quickly become a prime destination for sneakerhead satire. In less than a year, it has already garnered an impressive 22,000 followers. How has it achieved such high numbers in such a short amount of time? Well, cofounder Nick Crippen attributes some of the success to his “sarcastic feelings” and proximity to the “culture,” allowing him and his partner-in-comedy, Clayton Rossner, to “create a brand that’s more than just a meme page.” From poking fun at Supreme store lines to the absurdity of reseller culture, the sneakerhead jesters have proved themselves to be masters of hypebeast comedy––though they aren’t the first.

Popular accounts like @FakeYeezyBoosts and @Vetememes have been cranking out memes about hypebeasts and sneakerheads for years, well before Deadstock Report got its feet wet.

Eventually, FakeYeezyBoosts’ influence became so pervasive that it was enlisted by Grailed, a popular reseller site, to create personalized content for its socials. Although the memedom of social media is a highly competitive arena, there is still a sense of camaraderie between these digital comedians, forged by a shared love of fashion-centric comedy. Grailed brand director Lawrence Schlossman was more than happy to talk to ONE37pm [[?]] about Deadstock Report’s recent success.

“I think Deadstock Report is carrying the torch for guys like myself who love fashion and take it seriously. We take a step back and poke fun at the culture and ourselves,” Schlossman says.

Schlossman is a longtime industry vet. He operates the Twitter account @four_pins, one of the most famous drip feeds in social media history. Recently revived by Twitter CEO Jack Dorsey, the menswear comedy staple made its celebrated return to the ranks of Twitter’s elite this January.

Like Four Pins, Deadstock Report hits home for many fans because its comedy pays homage to past streetwear and style traditions, but the digital vehicles of sneakerhead satire aren’t limited to visual content like Instagram and Twitter posts. Highsnobiety’s weekly podcast, The Dropcast, is an example of an audio-based platform that also casts a satirical eye on sneakerhead culture. Jian DeLeon, host of The Dropcast and editorial director of Highsnobiety, is very conscious of the cultural stickiness of content generated by accounts like Deadstock Report.

“I think Deadstock Report is hilarious,” says DeLeon. “It adds a self-aware sense of humor to a community that often takes itself too seriously.”

To get a sense of Deadstock Report’s savvy approach to sneakerhead comedy, you need only check out one of its recent Instagram stories: a hilarious collage of pictures featuring bootcut jeans and popular sneakers. For better or worse, GQ recently published an article about bootcut jeans gaining momentum for a comeback in the world of mainstream fashion. It was the perfect story for Deadstock Report to jump on. The conversation about the polarizing ’90s trend was just beginning to brew, and Deadstock Report didn’t waste any time capitalizing on the opportunity.

Crippen used Reddit to find a picture of bootcut jeans with Yeezys for the Instagram story, and before long Deadstock’s followers began to pile onto the joke. With hundreds of user-submitted images, he posted the most relevant photos.

“It started with one picture, a pair of Yeezys with bootcut jeans. I thought the photo was funny and put it on the story,” says Crippen. Before long, “about 300 messages hit my inbox with bootcut pics.”

Bootcut jeans are almost as antiquated as the days when images of baggy denim pants paired with coveted kicks ruled the online sneaker forum #NikeTalkDenim, one of the internet peanut gallery’s first digital stages for ranting and raving about the good, bad and ugly in the fashion world. This predates social media and Instagram’s “explore” page, a reminder of the strong effect social media can have on the popularity (or collective hatred) of an outfit.

Whatever your opinion of the bootcut jean outfit, there’s no denying its recognized status in fashion history. Deadstock Report’s lighthearted pandering to older trends is a huge part of its allure. By tapping into nostalgic aspects of fashion culture, while also introducing older styles to younger generations, it is able to bridge the generational gap through the shared language of satire.

“I think it is something that is needed. Just like The Onion does the news, this is like our version of The Onion,” says stylist and designer Megan Ann Wilson, who has worked with Chicago Bulls point guard Zach LaVine as well as companies like Air Jordan and Reebok. “It’s an interesting take on the culture, and I think it doesn’t hurt to poke some fun at it and just have fun with it and realize that, like, it’s life for a lot of us but you don’t have to take it too seriously,” she says.

In a world where Twitter feeds refresh faster than you can say “140 characters,” Deadstock’s comedic intuition and keen nose for emerging trends have catapulted it into popularity. But what’s the secret sauce? Well, it might be Deadstock’s ability to play to a wide range of comedic sensibilities––its cheeky attitude and lighthearted approach are just as approachable to the sneakerhead as to the bootcut jean enthusiast, giving every creed and color of fashion-obsessed fan more than a good reason to smash that follow button.

Sneakers Style

Why Does Luxury Fashion Cost So Much?

For a fleeting but character-building moment last year, I wanted to own a pair of Balenciaga Triple S sneakers. You might have seen them: The paragon of 2018’s ugly dad sneaker trend, they are molded around the foot like a daycare–made Plasticine mountain. Some come with mesh and contrasting colorways, like this Frankenstein one. Others come pre-dirtied so you can pretend to look poor. Don’t be mistaken, though—these sneakers cost $895, or a little over one month’s rent for me (I live in Bushwick).

That didn’t stop many sneakerheads from hunting them down. New York Times reporter Jon Caramanica documented his eight-month odyssey to secure a pair when they were first released. Then, three months later, rapper Wiz Khalifa ended them with a tweet bemoaning their ubiquity. By October of last year, the Triple S was on life support. Luckily, I paid my rent. On time.

Thanks to these chonk sneakers, however, Balenciaga is nearing €1 billion (or $1.13 billion) in revenue. A lot of the brand’s recent financial success is owing to the Triple S. Now millennial men are some of Balenciaga’s most prized customers. But why do any sneakers cost a wallet-burning $895? Are gold flakes baked into the soles? Or are we just being hoodwinked by brands like Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein?

Tl;dr: How is this shit so expensive?

In some cases, we are being hoodwinked. Though luxury menswear made up less than a quarter of the $1.7 trillion apparel and footwear market in 2017, according to Euromonitor, menswear is expected to outpace women’s wear sometime in the next three years. (Menswear currently accounts for 5 to 7 percent of all revenue at Louis Vuitton, but rumor is prices are going up thanks to men’s creative director Virgil Abloh.) To boot, teen spending is up on clothing, with dudes shelling out up to $2,600 a year on what they wear, according to a 2018 Piper Jaffray survey.

The way goods are priced is down to an exact science for luxury brands. Labels like Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga generally begin by using more “luxe” raw materials at the design stage, usually produced by manufacturers in Euro-Mediterranean countries. “It goes without saying that materials used by luxury brands are almost always—and sometimes by a multiple—more expensive than materials used for mass-market products,” says Jeremy Cai, CEO of a new invite-only marketplace called Italic. “For example, top-grade Italian leather suppliers will sell their leathers for several times what a commodity American leather supplier may charge, and a premium technical material that Gore-Tex sells will go for many times its lesser counterpart.”

Jeremy Cai, CEO of Italic

Materials used by luxury brands are almost always—and sometimes by a multiple—more expensive than materials used for mass-market products

Italic is hoping to democratize this supply chain by allowing consumers to buy quality goods directly from the same factories as top brands but without the branding. So, for example, you can buy an unbranded pair of shoes from the same factory that makes footwear for upscale brands like Church’s or Kenzo. “We mandate that our manufacturers use the same or equivalent-tier supplier, materials and craftsmen as their most premium clients,” Cai adds.

As one high-end retail executive in Britain explained, on the condition of anonymity, not every material that goes into a luxury item is necessarily luxurious. “Normally, things like coats, jackets, suiting, shoes and bags are made from absolutely gorgeous fabrics you wouldn’t ever find on the high street,” he said. “If you need proof, try on a Zara suit jacket and then try on a McQueen blazer.”

The idea stands to reason. Fast-fashion retailers have to produce quickly, and at scale, so quality is often sacrificed. But what about the recent trend of luxury streetwear? “Where things get murkier is in the rise of streetwear as luxury fashion items. How luxurious can a cotton T-shirt or sweatshirt really be?” the retail executive continued. “Often in these categories, the materials are made from and the factories they are made in are of dubious origin.”

Prices of raw materials dictate material trends in fashion. Not to get all Devil Wears Prada cerulean sweater on you, but if shearling suddenly turns up in the collections of ten designers, it can likely be pinpointed to the low cost of sheep hides six months prior. Luxury sneakers, for the most part, don’t rely on fluctuating prices of raw materials. Balenciaga’s Triple S shoe is made of leather, mesh, jersey and, at the toe box, a proprietary reflective 3M material, according to The RealReal. Triple S sneakers “were initially made in Italy, but the manufacturer of the shoe was moved to China, where they have a savoir-faire and capacities to produce a lighter shoe,” a customer service representative explained to one customer who thought the $895 meant a “Made in Italy” tongue tag.

Let’s say I bought a pair of Triple S sneakers at the RRP [recommended retail price] of $895 before taxes. I’d still have sticker shock, but let’s see how they arrived here. The “cost price”—an industry term for the base cost after manufacturing and labor is covered—is doubled to determine the wholesale price for online and brick-and-mortar retailers. Across the board, a retailer will generally add a markup of 2.3 times the wholesale price. If that standard markup is taken off, the price is about $390. That would represent the designer’s wholesale price. Halve that and you have the cost price, the actual cost of making the shoes: $195.

OK, so once these puppies are made, they head to one of a brand’s many outlets or a department store like Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue or Barneys New York. “It drifts somewhere around where what we paid for it is between 30 percent and 50 percent of the full price we are selling it for. For instance, a pair of Balenciaga Triple S sneakers cost us £300 to buy from Balenciaga (they probably made it in China for £100) and we sell it for £695,” said the retail executive. “A Raf Simons T-shirt has a cost price of £95, we sell it for £265. Fine jewelry and watches are where the margin is much lower. The easy way to look at it is that everyone in the chain’s cost is a third.”

Anonymous Retail Executive

Where things get more murky is in the rise of streetwear as luxury fashion items. How luxurious can a cotton T-shirt or sweatshirt really be?

When retailers announce sales, they can comfortably knock off up to 50 percent and still make a profit. “We can usually make a profit up until about 70 percent, then we’re breaking even,” said the retail executive. “Most retailers now do 10 percent or 20 percent off sale prices (that could already be at manufacturer prices) after a sale has run for about a month in all markets. The aim at that point is to get rid of it because to store and handle the stock costs money, and you need to make room for new items.” To make sure you’re not getting hoodwinked, look for sale periods beginning in May and December.

I may never be so well heeled as to be seen stomping the pavement in clunky Balenciaga sneakers. But to know that I saved $895 by pumping the brakes on my short-lived impulse gives me a true sense of how luxury feels, and that is worth more to me than any snea—

Fuck it, add to cart.

Read more: A Comprehensive History of Men’s Airport Style

Entrepreneurs Grind

What We Can Learn From Jonah Hill’s Jujitsu Energy

Look into Jonah Hill’s eyes. These are not the eyes of a man who is about to take your shit. No, Hill is on a tear of self-fulfillment, and that includes forgiving himself for his former insecurities. The Wolf of Wall Street actor is putting all the negative thoughts and detractors in a rear naked choke (a deadly jujitsu move I just googled) and moving toward a lifestyle filled with confidence by trying new things that previously scared him. But this isn’t a solo venture: He’s advocating for his followers, us plebs, to do the same.

The actor turned director—he midwifed last year’s skater hit Mid90s—started on this path in a very public way. His style began edging into the territory of an unlikely fashion rebel. In April 2017, the Instagram @jonahfits cropped up and began posting Hill’s outfits, framing him as an arbiter of good taste and pushing him into the ruling classes of celebrity street style. (Other famous menswear eccentrics include Shia LaBeouf, DeAndre Jordan and Jeff Goldblum.) He hasn’t exactly spoken about whether or not style was an area in which he lacked confidence. But now he forgoes using a stylist to dress him up.

“Your style is who you are. Don’t let people put you in clothes—fuck that!” he said in a recent episode of Complex’s Sneaker Shopping. “From now on … I’m gonna come out here as me.” And the dude looks good, often photographed walking around SoHo in NYC or on the way to his weekly Pilates class.

For Hill, that same attitude has extended into sport. Recently, he posted a photo of himself wearing a navy Gi after earning his first “stripe.” It was accompanied by a shoutout in the caption to Sensai Josh. The caption also exposed his reasoning behind training in martial arts: 

“In high school, the dudes who did Jiu Jitzu [sic] used to beat the shit out of us at parties so it turned me off to it as an idea growing up. But quietly I always thought it was a beautiful art form,” Hill wrote. “At 35, I try and get over the stuff that made me feel weak and insecure as a teenager. It’s just wasted time and lessons you’ll never learn. Trying to let go of that. Nothing more humbling than getting your ass kicked by a 12-year-old your first week.”

Jonah Hill

If you’re doing something because you’re imagining what people will think when they see you doing it, you’re not doing it for the right reason

To project a bit of philosophy onto an Instagram caption, it appears as though Hill has embraced Stoicism, the school of Greek thought that touts virtue as the originator of happiness and suggests indifference to external forces. In other words, you can’t control what happens to you; you can only control how you react to it. “Stoicism doesn’t concern itself with complicated theories about the world, but with helping us overcome destructive emotions and act on what can be acted upon,” reads this brief explainer. “It’s built for action, not endless debate.”

Hill is a doer, leaving no room for self-pity or crippling insecurity to stop him from pursuing a new venture, be it directing a film or dodging a roundhouse kick. He is not only making moves on the jujitsu mat but also telling his fans in no uncertain terms that we need to vanquish unnecessary fears. What’s stopping you?

In case his plunge into self-help wasn’t clear enough, he posted a Notes app screenshot musing about feelings of inadequacy. “If you’re doing something because you’re imagining what people will think when they see you doing it, you’re not doing it for the right reason,” he wrote in the caption to his audience of 1.3 million followers. “Pursue the things that scare you even though you might ‘embarrass’ yourself.”

While nobody anticipated Jonah “Self-Help” Hill entering a space dominated by modern-day philosopher Eckhart Tolle and poet Rupi Kaur, his audience could be exactly the right people who need to hear this stuff. In another post, he has vowed to “challenge toxic masculinity.” The man is becoming more comfortable in his own skin, and this confidence is reverberating on social media. Jonah Hill isn’t just a god of the jawnz, he’s also a talented filmmaker and, now, my advice dad. Thank you, Jonah. See you on the mats.

Read more: Should Jonah Hill Be the Next Bond?