Category: Leaders

For Iannucci, it’s all about feel. A day spent bike riding is just as valuable as one hashing out design ideas. Like actual skateboarding, everything comes down to curation—the spot, the trick, how it’s done and how it looks—and allowing that to be liquid is a learning and a boon to POETS and a regimen he’s easing into. 

“We spend so much time on our phones and it can really fuck with you,” he says. “You see people feeling like they have to post something, especially when you own a brand—it’s so consuming. You have to stop and think about what you’re actually doing outside of Instagram or whatever and realize all the work you’re putting in and what you’ve done, not what you’d posted or what this person’s doing, you know? It’s easy to forget what goes into making things.”

The Happiness Project has been around since 2017, but really started picking up steam this last summer of 2020. In 2017, one of Jake’s classmates, Nick Spaid, tragically lost his battle with mental illness. This moment catalyzed the mission of the Happiness Project, encouraging Jake to spread awareness about mental illness through his clothing line. By wearing a hoodie with “The Happiness Project” emboldened across it, it will always prompt people to ask, “What is that?” And just like that, you’re talking with someone about the Happiness Project’s mission and having an open conversation about mental health.

Although the project first started in 2017, it wasn’t until this past summer that Jake and the team started really working on the brand. The hoodies and other products are certainly cool, but the focus is always on the message and the mission. In 2020, they donated over $50,000 to NAMI.org, the nation’s largest grassroots mental health organization, “dedicated to building better lives for the millions of Americans affected by mental illness.” The gear itself opens up conversations, while the brand donates 15% of the proceeds towards organizations helping those fighting their battle against mental illness.

Jake and I spoke a bit about the design process as well and how they went about selecting the now iconic colors and logo for the brand. They tested a plethora of color option before settling on the current pastel array you can see available on their website right now. They wanted to opt for “colors that scream happiness at you.” Jake wanted to keep the logo juvenile in a way, “almost  like a kids writing it.” It’s an immensely serious topic, but by presenting it in a more relaxed way, it allows people to approach mental health with less hesitancy.

As far was what’s next for the Happiness Project, a lot of the details are under wraps. They’re working on another drop soon, which will feature tie dye patterns—the result of a full week of dye testing in Jake’s backyard this summer. They also are in talks with some big names about doing awareness events down the line, but some of those plans are on holds due to the pandemic. When I asked Jake for some of his long term goals, he had them locked and loaded: festivals to raise awareness, getting mental health resources into communities that can’t afford them, creating a big factory-like space where people can have fun and hang out that can function as a totally judgement free area.

Between their donations and ability to spread their message, The Happiness Project has certainly made an incredible impact so far. 2020 was huge, but I imagine 2021 will be even bigger. Keep your eye on the brand’s socials and definitely cop a tee or sweatshirt to support the young entrepreneurs, in addition to supporting mental health awareness.

How did you get the job at Trés Bien?

The day I quit Polar, I went to the Trés Bien HQ in Malmö, just to hang out since we knew each other from working together on the Polar x Trés Bien collaboration. I was trying to be in a creative environment within the same typology as Polar. They asked me right away if I wanted to design some striped tees/jersey and draw some graphics for their “Souvenir” line. I obviously took the chance and started freelancing for them.

After just 2 months they asked me to become a designer there full time for their in house line and do some graphics for the Souvenir line so I accepted. I honestly liked that freelance period. I got to work in Barcelona for Sour skateboards a bit and I could focus and put more work in Quartersnacks and start a bit with Alltimers and some more brands. But, after all, Tres Bien was too nice of an opportunity to snob.

What does your role at Tres Bien entail?

Clothing and graphic design, plus all the production that comes with it. From sourcing and ordering fabrics, woven labels, etc, to getting the product finished and delivered to our headquarters.

With the pandemic, what does your day to day routine look like?

Sweden has been a bit of a question mark to the eyes of the world regarding the pandemic issue. I would say the main tangible change here is that we can’t travel to nearby Denmark (Copenhagen) as we usually did. So besides that detail, my daily routine didn’t really change much. I wake up, go to the Tres Bien HQ or work from home, depending on what the task is that week. When I’m done working, I go play some basketball or skate a bit, then work a bit more on my other projects. After that I’m ready to chill a bit with my girl and go sleep so I can recharge and do it all over again. Looking back at it, I actually used the down time this whole situation created to focus and do more work that I’m hyped on.

I know you’re really close with Kosta, the founder of Quartersnacks. How did you guys meet?

We met way back In 2008 when I used to travel a bunch to New York since my ex was from Jersey. One of the OG QS guys, Isak, was studying a semester in Florence and when he moved back to NY I started visiting him often. He introduced me to Kosta and all the QS boys. 

Traveling with him is perfect, we’re really similar under many aspects. We like to see new things whether it’s museums or street markets. We’re always up for whatever sounds nice: a spritz, an aperitivo and some NBA finals illicit stream.

But that goes for the rest of the people that usually join us on these trips. We’re all kinda the same. As long as we can have chill times, eat and drink well, everyone is in. The skating is very casual. I don’t think we’ve ever picked a destination for its spots. We just go to a city, cruise around and skate what we find.

Did designing clothing for Quartersnacks just come naturally from being friends with Kosta?

Yeah, that definitely happened due to our friendship. I think the first thing I did for him was the Spritz mock up graphic. And that came basically from drinking many spritzes in Copenhagen and noticing that the logo was actually good to mess around with. Same with many other designs. We’d find a vintage t-shirt at a market and go “this is perfect, let’s just change this to QS!”. But as I did more stuff for him, he started asking me to do graphics from scratch, from ideas I wasn’t part of. He’d just start by explaining to me what vibe he’d like and then bouncing designs back and forth until we have the final one.

How did the Trés Bien X Quartersnacks collab come about?

When I started at Tres Bien, I told Kosta that it could be funny if we did a collaboration and he thought the same. I pitched it to my boss and he was also into the idea since I work for both companies. It made sense. 

The Trés Bien in house line we make is rather high end, with production in Europe and fine Italian fabrics and trimmings, so in the start we thought of releasing a capsule with cut and sew pieces that would land a bit out of the skate market price range, but in the end somehow, we ended up doing only the printables. 

Those graphics were pretty nice to do, since I was given a blank canvas from both sides. I thought that the QuarTrèsnacks was a fun wordplay for one graphic. The other one with the Alps is completely random, like I’ve done before for the QS line: connecting the brand with places that have nothing to do with it.

What about the Sneeze Mag X Tres Bien collab?

That connection was born from a coworker at Trés Bien that has been friends with the Sneeze people for quite some time. The creation of the capsule was built quite the same way as the QS one, so we knew we wanted printables and some cut and sew garments based on a funky twist to sporty outerwear.

I sourced a vintage anorak during the process and it was a very good fit with some nice details, so we decided to work on that design and turn it into a leather jacket, with a bucket hat to match. So you end up with a rain jacket that you can’t really use in the rain (laughs).

The fleece vest was mostly based on a fuzzy fleece fabric we sourced and wanted to use combining it with my love for fishing/technical vests. One of the rugbys was inspired from an offset stripe pattern painting I’ve seen during a visit at the local museum. The rest is based on vintage references combined with fabric sourcing. It was quite fun to make and I’m happy that the guys at Sneeze dealt with the graphic design part of the collection. I think it is nice to have both sides working on a collaboration rather than just one company borrowing the logo.

What brands do you think are doing things right these days?

I personally really like Aime Leon Dore. They have really good designs based on really smart references, the garments are really high quality and the collaborations are very well picked. Plus the image they’ve built around the brand is really cool to me.

I also think Palace is on an insane streak right now. We can discuss the fact that they are making too many collaborations or that most of the clothing is a bit “young” or hype. But still, the way they approach the presentation of their main line or the different capsules is absolutely flawless.

I recently started working a bit with you for Grand Collection. I really like the direction you’re taking the brand, plus the drive and effort you’ve been putting into it. There aren’t many casual decisions taken, everything is well thought after and executed.

I think that the guys at Dancer are also doing really nice things with their product in terms of quality and design and also how they market it.

For a less streetwear example, I really like Auralee and Bode. They both work with extremely high end fabrics or with an extreme research process, the fits are amazing and the final product is beautiful. It’s stuff I can’t afford and usually wouldn’t wear, but I really admire it. Other than these there are many other brands I got love for so it’s kind of hard to list them all.

Tell us about your vintage business? 

It’s called Noon Archive and so far is an Instagram shop (@Noon_archive) and a Depop page. But it’s slowly growing, as we are working on a webstore and planning a second pop up store.

The idea started from my love for vintage clothing, whether in sportswear or high end brands, and how I’ve always loved going to street markets and thrift stores knowing that in any table or rack there could be a gem hidden.

Also, I’ve had a vintage store before starting at Polar, where I used to source vintage between Sweden and Italy so I know how to get my hands on the product. Pretty much what was left to do was to think of a good name, start an Instagram account, take good pictures of the stock we had from one of our recent trips to Italy and build an image and concept around it. After that, just always be on the lookout for more product to add.

The name comes from the fact that working full time at Trés Bien, I have to use my hour lunch break (starting 12 o’clock) to go around Malmö researching gear at the local thrifts. That’s how the name Noon came about. It is a lot of work, especially balancing it between the full time job I have and the other graphic design gigs, but it is worth it seeing the response it is having from people.

If someone reading this wants to become a designer, what would you suggest?

I just think that if you love something you should pursue it. Put as much effort and work you can in learning and developing your skills, be humble in what you do and be nice to people and at some point you will be rewarded.

Let’s get this out of the way: could a discussion about contemporary streetwear — or New York streetwear — even be had without mentioning Supreme? Although the brand’s high-priced and ultra-limited edition lines have become fodder for endless knock-offs and the subject of snooty fashion derision, the unique visual language of Supreme endures throughout the world. The ubiquitous clothing line has even become its own form of cryptocurrency amongst certain circles. That’s how you know you’ve really made it.

Power to the stoners! Money Green Merch, a small clothing brand attached to a budding hip hop label, is selling socially conscious activist wear that makes not-so-subtle political statements. Weed’s not quite legalized yet here in NYC, but you can get ahead of De Blasio and Cuomo on the matter with this merch.

High-end fashion line SABIT specializes in hand-made and specially tailored garments: “We enjoy making clothes. This is the energy of our products,” reads the company’s sparse mission statement. The label’s kimono-style jackets, bombers, and college-branded sweaters aren’t cheap but the level of craft and care in each garment is worth the price.

As per their name, 5boroNYC is paying homage to this great city’s distinctly idiosyncratic sections. A sendup to classic New York pride, the brand’s hoodie, hat, and t-shirt designs range from graffiti-influenced to normcore. The label’s boards are wonderful, brujeria-inspired sendups to the indomitable spirit of the Big Apple. A nice bonus is that all the products are made in the USA.

A few motifs run through the collections currently on sale at Privilege NYC: the “Saints and Sinners” micro-collection features corrupted religious iconography, while the Lafayette products are rife with the imagery of the French Revolution. The cosmology of the brand is a bit scattered, but the designs are striking nonetheless. Clock their retro polos while you browse the more contemporary shirts, shorts, hip packs, and sweaters.

The appropriately named “Stay Cool NYC” brand correctly describes its products as “retro-futuristic chillwear.” The 90’s nostalgia is apparent in every item, and the adorably whimsical air-brush graphics are masterpieces. It’s certainly more sugary than the average streetwear, but it’s all incredibly cute.

Kid Super has plenty to offer by way of politically-minded casual wear, but it’s the label’s hand-painted and embellished whimsical jackets and matching pants that are the standouts of the line. Many of the doodles on each item come from the head designer, Colm Dillane’s fine art practice.

“This [brand] was the perfect way to encapsulate my, and I think many others’, relationship to New York City,” reads Kid Super’s manifesto.

With President Trump increasingly comparing urban areas to warzones, the militaristic imagery of this brand’s streetwear takes on overtly political overtones. Doodled bullet-proof vests and surveillance helicopters paint an ominous picture of inner-city life, but offer a sparse message of justice. See: the Pitbull Foundation t-shirt which asserts, “Don’t judge a dog by its breed.”

Named after Japan’s wandering warriors, Ronin Division brings a sleek, understated design philosophy to their smartly color-blocked and very limited edition jackets and tees. According to their mission statement, the brand is “looking to define the culture and experiences of the ruthless vagabond.” Sounds like a strong streetwear philosophy, if you ask us.

“Awake NY is a reflection of the diversity that has defined the city’s cultural landscape. Simultaneously classic and contemporary, Awake NY evokes both the changing aesthetic vibrancy and timelessness of New York,” reads the brand’s website. Indeed, the brightly colored tees, flannel button downs, sweatpants, and hoodies are evocative of the brightest parts of New York’s concrete jungle. No stranger to anti-authoritarian statements, the “In God We Trust, In The President We Don’t” tee is likely to be a hot item this Summer — for obvious reasons.

Emblematic of a specific kind of post-vaporwave, post-internet psychedelia, Nine One Seven (named after the outdated yet still-pervasive NYC area code) is clearly a child of early 00’s skate culture aesthetics. More flirtatious and cartoonish hoodies and sweaters provide a juxtaposition to the brand’s bizarre offerings.

Founded in 1999, Alife’s impeccably curated collection of sneakers showcases a particular paragon of on-trend footwear. From ultra-rare Yeezy’s to old-school Converse and limited edition collabs, Alife’s assortments of uniquely branded merch and specially assembled selections walk a fine balance between high-end designer loungewear and urban sensibilities, from a distinctly New York perspective.

Tier’s got the basic streetwear essentials: an assortment of French Terry cotton hoodies in various colorways including Easter pastels alongside basic shorts, socks, and tees. The brand’s offerings get a bit more sophisticated when you scroll down to their worker’s jackets and flannel button downs, which frequently have the eternal phrase “ART NEVER DIES” embroidered on them. Take note of the brand’s exquisite varsity jacket while you browse.

Aside from Staten Island, Queens is probably the borough that gets the least love — and it’s a shame! With an increasingly thriving nightlife scene and a rich history of powerful immigrant stories, Belief NYC is repping the maligned Astoria neighborhood through unapologetic and on-trend tie-dye and collegiate t-shirts and hoodies.

Deconstructed fashion — clothing that takes the essential elements of a given garment and re-arranges them into something new and avant-garde — was pioneered by Rei Kawakubo and her Commes De Garcons label over the past few decades. Korean brand Pushbutton is continuing that thesis with clever subversions of outfit essentials: jeans with discoloration over the crotch, oversized skirts created out of parts from jackets, trench coats flowing with an abundance of fabric. The playfully transgressive aesthetic is appropriately gender-neutral and effortlessly eye-catching.

“Pushbutton always strives to make a beautiful balance between opposite concepts, such as feminine vs. masculine and sexual vs. sporty,” said Park Seung Gun, the brand’s creative director, to The Klog. “I believe in this highly competitive society, with societal issues like youth unemployment, Koreans try to gain confidence through fashion and beauty. I’ve seen Korean youth on the streets with a very bold fashion sense and they’re very open to expressing themselves. I think Korean fashion is all about taking risks and not being afraid of being different from others, and personally, I believe Koreans have a strong ego that allows them to feel free to express their own style.”

D-Antidote is putting slight cyberpunk twists on American sportswear in their mischievous streetwear lines. Introducing subtle variations on basketball jerseys and clever corruptions of Western logos, D-Antidote is fresher than your average gear. Their recent “Space Jam” themed collection is the perfect example of propelling classic athletic garb into the future with interesting proportions and unexpected colorways. Their collaborations with Fila have already helped reinvigorate the latter brand in this new decade.

“I think that the fashion here reflects the environment,” said D-Antidote designer, Hwansung Park, to Hypebeast. “For example, when I was in London, if I wore something vivid or colorful, it sometimes wouldn’t fit with the aesthetic of the city. Whereas in Seoul, all of the buildings, shops and roads are very modern and new. So it means that people can digest these kinds of flashy colors easier than in other cities.”

Ader Error has now collaborated with brands like Maison Kitsune, Puma, and G-Shock — meaning they’ve got some seriously legit brands backing them up. Their typical look puts an avant-garde twist on typical 90s tropes like chunky sneakers, oversized knit sweaters, and distressed denim — but don’t let the infatuation with decade fool you, their stuff is far more sophisticated than your typical nostalgia trappings. 

In 2018, GQ described Ader Error as “the world’s coolest brand.” 

“We started this brand to communicate with people,” a brand rep told the mag. “We started as a fashion company but we don’t want to just be a fashion brand. We aim to be techy, lifestyle and that little something more – a new type of business.”

Nohant is definitely less eccentric than many of the brands on this list: inspired by French style and retro fashion, this line is best for rebellious twists on basics and essentials. Jerseys, polos, and sporty summer wear are updated for 2020 with interesting stitching and smart construction.

Almost indistinguishable from Western normcore brands, thisisneverthat (has there ever been a catchier name for a company?) sells distressed workman’s jackets, pre-shredded baseball caps, and pre-scuffed New Balance sneakers. The minimal-effort designs fit in well with the cultish popularity of utilitarian brands like Carhartt amongst urban fashionistas who pretend not to care about labels. W Magazine went as far as calling thisisneverthat “South Korea’s answer to Supreme.”

It’s no surprise given the company’s name that PAF specializes in zany post-modern streetwear. Reminiscent of early Gareth Pugh but with bolder color palettes and far more chaos, PAF brings a certain kind of high-brow chic to its bizarre line of ready to wear. 

“The fledgling label has developed its own design language through an in-depth study of its growing archive,” explains Hypebeast. “Its creations fall either into PAF’s conservative conventional ‘RIGHT’ category or into the ‘CENTER’ or experimental ‘LEFT’ garment series.”

With a sparse color palette and intricate silhouettes, it’s shouldn’t be surprising that Hyein Seo’s designs are reminiscent of early Fenty X Puma collabs: Rihanna’s been seen out and about in this brand’s looks several times and clearly cites them as inspiration (in fact, she might even be straight-up stealing from them). Either way, Hyein Seo’s been in several magazine’s brands to watch lists for years, which makes sense given their avant-garde yet imminently wearable sensibilities. Hyein Seo’s clothes have previously appeared in the States by way of VFiles.

Tye dye t-shirts, striped polos, skate decks, baseball caps, and board shorts: skateboard culture has clearly made its way to Korea with this brand’s line of 90’s inflected streetwear. Far more accessible (and affordable) than the couture collections featured elsewhere on this list, Mahagrid’s offerings are legible within the tradition of ultra-cool action sports.

Take the understated sensibilities of the ‘90s skate culture and add in a dash of Lynchian paranoia: Rocket X Lunch’s latest line of clothing, which uses the motif of the doppelganger throughout a collection of outwear, introduces a sinister theme to their wearable wares. Their latest designs take aesthetic cues from paranoid psychedelia, ‘60s British mod culture, and traditional stoner apparel in equal measure.

99percentis seems to specialize in post-apocalyptic outerwear that fits perfectly in the aesthetic universe of The Purge (if those films hadn’t been specifically about America’s glorification of violence). Balancing creepy, cute, and cool, the destroyed masks, jackets, and pants are battle-ready and immensely intimidating. Helmed by a designer mononymously known as Bjowoo, the brand’s anarchic outfits have previously been worn by Lady Gaga and Justin Beiber.